121. A Tour of Mandi Bahauddin (Three Gurdwaras and A Temple)
On July 27, 2019, I had the opportunity to visit Mandi Bahauddin at the invitation of my dear friend and brother, Irfan Ahmed. I had explored the area around Mandi Bahauddin many times in the past, but never fully explored the city itself. It was a family visit, and I was just looking forward to meeting our relatives and perhaps discovering one or two old buildings. But the visit turned out to be very interesting.
Irfan, being aware of my fondness for old buildings with historical significance, took me on a quick tour of the city. The central part of the town, the bazaar area, is well planned and has broad streets, though, like every other city and town of Pakistan, it is overcrowded with encroachments, especially carts selling mostly vegetables, fruits, or clothes.
Our first destination was an old Pathshala (school). It is located in a by-lane off the main Sadar Bazar road, at 32┬░35’7.35″N, 73┬░29’30.46″E. Even today, it is being used as a government primary school. The compound has many rooms on two sides of a courtyard, built on two floors, and the only structure of particular interest is a pavilion. I am not sure what the pavilion was used for; perhaps a statue once stood here in the past.
A pavilion in the compound. (27.07.2019.)
Another view of the pavilion. (27.07.2019.)
A row of rooms. (27.07.2019.)
A view of the courtyard. (27.07.2019.)
Looking towards the entrance. (27.07.2019.)
Tariq Amir and Ibrahim Tariq. (27.07.2019.)
Tariq Amir and Irfan Ahmed. (27.07.2019.)
Some old houses in front of the Dharmsala. (27.07.2019█Ф)
реР
рдпрд╣ рдкрд╛рда рд╢рд╛рд▓рд╛ рдо. рдиреЛрджрдб рдорд▓
рд╕рдВрдд (рдХреНрд╖рддреНрд░) рд╕рд░рд╛рдл рдЬреА рдиреЗ рд╕рдкрдиреА
рдкреВрдЬреНрдпрд╛ рд╕реНрд╡рд░реНрдЧреНрд╡рд╛рд╢реА рдорд╛рддрд╛ рд╢реНрд░реА рдорддрд┐
рд╡реАрд░рд╛рдВ рджреЗрд╡реА рдЬреА рдХреА рдкрд╡рд┐рддреНрд░ рд╕реНрдореГрддрд┐
рдореЗрдВ рдмрдирд╡рд╛рдИ – рдорд╛рдШ рд╕рдВ: резрепрепрез
╪з┘И┘Е
█М█Б ┘╛╪з┘╣┌╛ ╪┤╪з┘Д╪з (╪п╪▒╪│┌п╪з█Б) ┘Е. ┘Ж┘И╪п┌С ┘Е┘Д
╪│┘Ж╪к (┌й╪┤╪к╪▒╪з) ╪╡╪▒╪з┘Б ╪м█М ┘Ж█Т ╪з┘╛┘Ж█М
┘╛┘И╪м█М╪з (┘╛┘И╪м┘Ж█Т ┘Д╪з╪ж┘В █М╪╣┘Ж█М ╪и█Б╪к ┘Е╪н╪к╪▒┘Е ) ╪│┘И╪▒┌п┘И╪з╪┤█М (╪м┘Ж╪к█М █М╪╣┘Ж█М ┘Е╪▒╪н┘И┘Е ) ┘Е╪з╪к╪з ╪┤╪▒█М┘Е╪к█М (┘Е╪н╪к╪▒┘Е█Б)
┘И█М╪▒╪з┌║ ╪п█М┘И█М ╪м█М ┌й█М ┘╛┘И┘Р╪к╪▒ ╪│┘Е╪▒╪к█М (┘Е┘В╪п╪│ █М╪з╪п)
┘Е█М┌║ ╪и┘Ж┘И╪з╪ж█М – ┘Е╪з┌п┌╛ 1991 (1934 ╪б)
This school was constructed by Nodar Mal, in the sacred memory of his late mother, Shrimati Veraan Devi. Magh 1999 Smvat. (1934 AD)
рдХрд╛рд╣рди рдЪрдВрдж рд╕рдирдШреЛрдИ рдирд┐рд╡рд╛рд╕реА рдиреЗ рд╢реНрд░рдпрдиреА
рдзрд░реНрдо рдкрддрдиреА рд╢реНрд░реАрдорддреА рд╣рд░ рджреЗрд╡реА рдХреА рдкрд╡рд┐рддреНрд░ рд╕реНрдореГрддрд┐
рдореЗрдВ рдмрдирд╡рд╛рдпрд╛
IN SACRED MEMORY OF HIS WIFE
SHRIMATI HAR DEVI
WHO DIED ON 30TH OCTOBER, 1933
BUILT BY
KAHAN CHAND OF SANGHOI
AT A COST OF RS. 1000
1934
After briefly visiting this Dharamsala, we passed through the busy Sadar Bazaar and turned towards Ghalla Mandi (grain market) Road. Here, we stopped in front of an old two-storey building. The ground floor has some shops facing the road. The entrance is a small door leading to a room and an adjoining corridor, which opens into a large hall. The building was a gurdwara before 1947 and is now being used as a warehouse. It is totally neglected and, due to this negligence, is falling apart. I forgot to ask someone, but it is probably a property of the Auqaf Department (or the Evacuee Trust Property Board). The problem is that such properties are often rented out or given on long-term leases, and the occupants have no interest in repairing or maintaining them. Consequently, many beautiful buildings across the country are tragically deteriorating.
I was told by someone that it was once a much larger complex, with another large building attached to it, which was perhaps a guest house and langar hall associated with the gurdwara. The exact date of construction is not known, but it can be safely guessed that it was built in the 1920s or 1930s. It is located at 32┬░35’3.90″N, 73┬░29’24.77″E. (In the map given below, I shall refer to this gurdwara as Gurdwara 1.)
A gurdwara in Mandi Bahauddin. (27.07.2019█Ф)
Two sides of the gurdwara. (27.07.2019█Ф)
A partially surviving plaque above the entrance. (27.07.2019█Ф)
The main hall. (27.07.2019█Ф)
Arches of the first floor and the ventilators. (27.07.2019█Ф)
Another view of the arches. (27.07.2019)
Large galleries exist behind these arches. (27.07.2019.)
It must have been a beautiful building in its good days. (27.07.2019.)
Galleries on the first floor. (27.07.2019.)
Another view of the arches. (27.07.2019.)
The ceiling of the hall. (27.07.2019.)
The interior was painted in sky blue. (27.07.2019.)
The building is used as a warehouse. (27.07.2019.)
A view of the first floor. (27.07.2019.)
The building is so badly damaged and passages are blocked that I had to use this ladder to go to the first floor. (27.07.2019)
The roof of the hall is quite high. (27.07.2019)
A corridor on the ground floor, is filled with junk. (27.07.2019.)
A view of the gallery on the first floor. (27.07.2019.)
A view of the gallery on the first floor. (27.07.2019.)
The ventilators as seen from outside. (27.07.2019.)
A gallery in poor condition. (27.07.2019.)
The roof at places has caved in. (27.07.2019.)
рйлрйз ри╕ри┐ри╡ри╛ риХри░ри╛риИ
риЬриЧрид ри╕рй░риШ ри░рйБриЯрйЗриЬри╛ ри╣ри╛ри▓ риорй░рибрйА
ри╕ри╛ри╣ри┐рид рикрйНри░ри╡ри╛ри░ рилриЧриг рйзрйпрйпрйл
51 ╪▒┘И┘╛█Т ╪│█М┘И╪з ┌й╪▒╪з╪ж█М
╪м┌п╪к ╪│┘Ж┌п┌╛ ╪▒┘П┘╣█М╪м╪з █Б╪з┘Д ┘Е┘Ж┌И█М
╪│╪з█Б╪к ┘╛╪▒┘И╪з╪▒ ┘╛┌╛┌п┘Ж┌С 1995 (┘Е╪з╪▒┌Ж 1938)
Rs 51, service rendered by Jagat Singh Ruteja Hal Mandi, literary body, Phagan 1995. (1938 AD)
рйзрйж ри╕рйЗри╡ри╛ риХри░ри╛риИ
ри╕рйНри░: риЬрйАри╡риг ри╕ри┐рй░риШ ри╡ризри╡ри╛ рипри╛рижриЧри╛ри░
риЕрикриирйЗ ринри░ри╛ридри╛ риХри░ридри╛ри░ ри╕ри┐рй░риШ рижрйА
10 ╪▒┘И┘╛█Т ╪│█М┘И╪з ┌й╪▒╪з╪ж█М
╪│╪▒╪п╪з╪▒ ╪м█М┘И┘Ж┌С ╪│┘Ж┌п┌╛ ┘И╪п┌╛┘И╪з █М╪з╪п┌п╪з╪▒
╪з┘╛┘Ж█Т ╪и┌╛╪▒╪з╪к╪з ┌й╪▒╪к╪з╪▒ ╪│┘Ж┌п┌╛ ╪п█М
Rs 10, service rendered by Sardar Jeevan Singh Wadha, in memory of his brother.
рйзрйж ри╕рйНри░: риИри╢ри░ ри╕ри┐рй░риШ
рижрилрйЗрижри╛ри░
10 ╪▒┘И┘╛█Т ╪│╪▒╪п╪з╪▒ ╪з█М╪┤╪▒ ╪│┘Ж┌п┌╛
╪п┘Б╪╣╪п╪з╪▒
Rs 10, service rendered by Sardar Eshar Singh Dafedear (a non commissioned officer in the cavalry)
250 ри╕рйЗри╡ри╛ риХри░ри╛риИ риЗри╕ риЪрйЛри╡рй░риХ рижрйА рин: риЬрйИ ри╕ри┐рй░риШ
рикрйНри░рйАридрио ри╕ри┐рй░риШ риХри░рйАриЖриирйЗ ри╡ри╛ри▓рйЗ риорй░рибрйА ри╕рйИри╣рид рикрйНри░ри╡ри╛ри░
250 ╪▒┘И┘╛█Т ╪│█М┘И╪з ┌й╪▒╪з╪ж█М ╪з╪│ ┌Ж┘И┌й ╪п█М ╪и┌╛╪з╪ж█М ╪м█Т ╪│┘Ж┌п┌╛
┘╛╪▒█М╪к┘Е ╪│┘Ж┌п┌╛ ┌й╪▒█М╪з┘Ж█Т ┘И╪з┘Д█Т ┘Е┘Ж┌И█М ╪│█М█Б╪к ┘╛╪▒┘И╪з╪▒
Rs 250, service rendered by Bhai Jai Singh Pritam Singh, store merchant, and market community.
Just at a little distance from the main Sadar bazaar and not far from the above-mentioned gurdwara, another old building exists. That too was a gurdwara. Now a family lives inside this building and we could not see it from inside. It too is a fairly large building with an impressive facade. This gurdwara is located at 32┬░35’0.41″N, 73┬░29’22.27″E. (In the map given below, I shall refer to this gurdwara as Gurdwara 2.) Kashmir House is painted above the door in Urdu, because refugees from Kashmir settled in after the independence.
The main entrance of the gurdwara. (27.07.2019.)
Another view of the gate. (27.07.2019.)
ри╕риЪ риЦрй░риб ри╡ри╕рйИ риири┐ри░рй░риХри╛ри░
╪│┌Ж ┌й┌╛┘Ж┌И ┘И╪│█Т ┘Ж┘Р╪▒┘Ж┌й╪з╪▒
(In the realm of Truth abides the Formless Lord.)
The main door. (27.07.2019.)
A side view of the building. (27.07.2019.)
Another view of the building. (27.07.2019.)
рйз риУ
рикрйНри░ри╡ри╛риг риЧригрйА ри╕рйЗриИ риЯри┐ри╣риЖриП
ри╕рилри▓ ридри┐риири╛ риХрйЗ риХри╛риори╛
рйирйжрйж риЗри╕ римрйЬрйЗ рижрйА ри╕рйЗри╡ри╛ риХри░ри╛риИ
римрйА: ри░ригриЬрйАрид риХрйМри░ ри╕рйБрикридриирйА ринри╛:
риорйЛри╣риг ри╕ри┐рй░риШ риЕрй░ри╕ ринри╛: римрй░риирйЛ
ри╕ри╛ри╣ри┐рим рипри╛рижриЧри╛ри░ риЖрикригрйА ри╕ри╕
ри░рйБриХриориг рижрйЗри╡рйА рижрйА ринрижри░ рйзрйпрйпрйп
1 ╪з┘И┘Ж┌й╪з╪▒
┘╛╪▒┘И╪з┘Ж┌С ┌п┌С█М┌║ ╪│┘И╪ж█М ┘╣┘Р█Б╪з╪ж█М
╪│┘╛┌╛┘Д ╪к┘Р┘Ж╪з┘Ж ┌й█Т ┌й╪з┘Е╪з
200 ╪▒┘И┘╛█Т ╪з╪│ ╪и┌С█Т ╪п█М ╪│█М┘И╪з ┌й╪▒╪з╪ж█М
╪и█М ╪и█М ╪▒┘Ж┌С╪м█М╪к ┌й┘И╪▒ ╪│┘П┘╛╪к┘Ж█М ╪и┌╛╪з╪ж█М
┘Е┘И█Б┘Ж┌С ╪│┘Ж┌п┌╛ ╪з┘Ж╪│ ╪и┌╛╪з╪ж█М ╪и┘Ж┘И
╪╡╪з╪н╪и █М╪з╪п┌п╪з╪▒ ╪в┘╛┌С█М┌║ ╪│╪│
╪▒┌й┘Е┘Ж┌С ╪п█М┘И█М ╪п█М ╪и┌╛╪п╪▒ 1999 (╪з┌п╪│╪к/╪│╪к┘Е╪и╪▒ 1942 ╪б)
Rs 200, service rendered by Bibi Ranjit Kaur w/o Bhai Mohan Singh Ans Bhai Banno sahib, in memory of her mother in law, Rukman Devi, Bhadr 1999. (Aug/Sep 1942 AD)
рйз риУ ри╕рйНри░рйА ______ риЧрйБри░рйВ риЬрйА
__________________________________________________
ри╕риорид рйзрйпрйпрйм
ринри╛: ри╕ри░рижри╛ри░ ри╕ри┐рй░риШ – ри╕рикрйБридри░ – ринри╛: ринриЧри╡ри╛рии ри╕ри┐рй░риШ
The above-mentioned two gurdwaras are located in a busy bazaar, but there is another gurdwara situated on the outskirts of the city, about a kilometre and a half east of the city centre, at 32┬░35’16.05″N, 73┬░30’26.80″E. It must once have stood amid open green fields, offering a pleasant view, but it is now surrounded by closely built, unplanned houses. It appears that these houses have been constructed on the land of the gurdwara. This gurdwara was built in 1944, as indicated by an inscription on the building. Much of the surrounding structures have been demolished or absorbed into neighbouring houses; however, the main tower-like building still survives and remains in reasonably good condition, considering the time that has passed since its construction.
The three-storey gurdwara building. (27.07.2019.)
A closer view of the two top floors. (27.07.2019.)
Writings on the building show that local Muslims also used it for some time for religious purposes. (27.07.2019.)
A view of the top floors from another angle. (27.07.2019.)
Another view of the top floor. (27.07.2019.)
Another side of the tower. (27.07.2019.)
A newly constructed structure blocks the fourth side of the tower. (27.07.2019.)
A view from the south. (27.07.2019.)
Ibrhim Tariq, though not having much interest in such matters, came with me and perhaps enjoyed too. (27.07.2019.)
Irfan Ahmed, credit for this discovery goes to him. (27.07.2019.)
Tariq Amir. (27.07.2019.)
The entrance from this side has been blocked. The green door on the right is of a new construction. (27.07.2019.)
ри╕ридри┐ риЧрйБри░ риири┐ри╡ри╛ри╕
(Holy shabds)
It seems that people used this building for religious purposes for some time. But while painting Islamic phrases on the walls, they took care not to paint or disfigure the inscriptions written in Gurmukhi. (27.07.2019.)
риЧрйБри░ риорйБриЦри┐ риири╛риириХ риЬри╛ри░ ризри┐риЖ ри╕ринри┐ риЖриЦри╣ ризрй░рии ризрй░рии ризрй░рии риЧрйБри░ риорйЛриИ
ри╕ридри┐риХри░ридри╛ри░ риЬрйА
(Holy shabds)
риХри╣рйБ риири╛риириХ ри╕ридри┐ риЧрйБри░ – римри▓ри┐ри╣ри░рйА риЬри┐риирйЗ риПри╣рйБ – риери╛риирйБ ри╕рйБри╣ри╛ риЗриЖ
(Holy shabds)
римри╛римри╛ рикри░ рикри░ рикри░ рикриЬри╛ риЖри╕риг риери╛рикригри╕ риЖ
риХри╣рйБ риири╛риириХ ри╕ридри┐ риЧрйБри░ – римри▓ри┐ри╣ри╛ри╣ри╛ри░рйА риЬри┐риириПри╣рйБ – риери╛риирйБ
(Holy shabds)
— римри╛римри╛ рикри░ ризри░ рикриЬри╛ риЖри╕риг римри╛ризриг ри╕риЖ
(Holy shabds)
1944 is inscribed on this corner, which gives its year of construction. So the devotees had to leave this place soon after its completion. (27.07.2019.)
риЖрим риЪри▓риирйА ри╡ризри░рйА риЧрйБри░ риири╛риириХ риири┐рид риири┐рид риЪрйЬрйЗ —–
(Holy shabds)
ри╕ридри┐ риЧрйБри░ риХри░ри┐рижрйАриирйЗ риЕри╕римри┐ри░ риШри░римри╛ри░
(Holy shabds)
These buildings may not have much historical importance; nevertheless, they are a link to the pre-partition society of Mandi Bahauddin, when different religious communities lived in this city. It was a small town before independence, but the non-Muslims formed an overwhelming majority. As the table given below shows:
|
Mandi |
||||||
|
Total |
Muslims |
% |
Hindus |
% |
Sikhs |
% |
|
12,752 |
2,269 |
17.79 |
6,146 |
48.20 |
4277 |
33.54 |
Mandi Bahauddin is a new city and was probably settled during the development of canal colonies. In 1941, it had a population of just 12,572. Now the population, according to the census of 2017 is 198,609. So this city has witnessed an exponential growth in the last 8 decades. These buildings should be preserved because of their value as part of our heritage and this city’s link to the pre-independence era.
Tariq Amir
December 07, 2019.
Doha – Qatar.
